A Whale's Tale ....

Why do I suddenly feel like having Fruit Loops for breakfast?

(Sue): Having lived in Colorado for more than 15 years now, and of course living with one of the truly great hunter's of all time, I think I have become a little complacent about the fantastic wildlife we have all around us. Oh yes, there's another bull elk, (yawn) another moose (ho hum), but being in Costa Rica I am once again a coastal newbie and experiencing some of God's amazing creations for the first time.  We finally got out on the water off of Playa Coco / Ocatal Beach (Golfo de Papagayo) a few days ago and had a spectacular encounter with a humpback whale mom and her newly birthed calf.  The area we were exploring had beautiful aqua blue waters (similar to what we've seen in the Caribbean) white sand and numerous protected coves, some with caves you could venture into at lower tides.

Humpback mom and  calf

Likely, this is why the mama pictured here chose this area to bring her baby into this world.  Although we were cautious to maintain a safe distance and with the boat shut off, both for our and the whales comfort and safety, they swam within an arm's length of us seemingly unconcerned.  We surmised that Mama was either suckling and/or training the little one as we were allowed to look on.  So sweet and peacefulsd & HUGE - awesome!  Also pictured above is a toucan that we saw from our treehouse in Dominical last week.  A rainbow of colors and so..........cute!!!  There were quite a few in the trees on our last day at the treehouse - guessing these were pretty young as they were quite small although Joe saw some larger ones. 

I think we better stop the boat now ... NOW!

The Guanacaste area is far more developed than the Southern Region of Costa Rica and already has some pretty impressive citizens including the Four Seasons Resort and former head "mucky-muck" of Time/Warner - AOL, Steve Case who has purchased a whole peninsula between Playa Hermosa and Playa Coco which he will be developing into a resort area including a top notch tennis training facility with Stephie Graf  - pretty nice to own your own peninsula, eh?  I have enjoyed my beach time reading and have been able, thanks to Kindle, to sample many new authors and subjects including currency trading!  If I had unlimited funds, I think that would be my future life - online currency training, reading all day, everyday, on the beach. And Ocotal, the black sand and lava rock  beach in Guanacaste Region, would be high up on the list of possibilities.   

Life's a Beach

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Whale's Tale off Bow!

(Joe): The huge rock croppings in the water make some excellent beach falls. You can pull into any one of these beaches and they are your very own for the day. I was offered the option to put on a mask and snorkle and jump in with the whales but "chickened out". After thinking it over the next day, I really wish I had gone in and next time I think I would gently lower myself into the water at the back of the boat, holding onto the ladder just to be able to see the whales swimming under water. Now, since it took approximately 56 years to get the first opportunity that I missed, I am not holding my breath that the second opportunity will be any time soon ..... but you never know. I took these photos and the mom was literally just a few feet below me as you can see from where I was standing on the bow, UNBELIEVEABLE! And as cool and awesome as all of this is, let me leave you with one of my favorite thoughts to ponder from the Bible: 1 Corinthians 2:9 (New Living Translation) That is what the Scriptures mean when they say, "No eye has seen, no ear has heard, and no mind has imagined what God has prepared for those who love him."

Dwell on that thought for a little while and see if you can't help but smile.

Penta Family Tree-House

Blog 02-06-2011: It’s Super Bowl Sunday and who cares! Packers vs Steelers, no real vested interest for me. The Pats blew their opportunity to go all the way and be playing in today’s game by losing to the Jets in a very lackluster performance….Tom Brady…what happened to your decision making skills that Sunday?

Penta Family Treehouse

Jane (Sue) and me (Tarzan) have scored what can only be described as a Swiss Family Robinson type Tree house in the Jungle with fantastic ocean views. Got a great deal on it too to keep to our budget. The howler monkeys wake us up each morning around 5:00 to 5:30am which is not a problem since we watch the glorious orange/red sunset each night around 5:30pm and then it is dark by 6pm. So, we eat and are in bed by no later than 8pm most nights. Saw a few this monkeys eating in the trees this morning while we were eating breakfast

The homes kitchen - outside on the deck

The covered deck wraps the whole house 360 degrees and the kitchen and dining are on the deck backing to the jungle side. If we walk around to the other side we sit (or hammock) and look at the Pacific Ocean. There is no one in close enough proximity to see thru the trees so going “au natural” outside is not a big deal … I am NOT saying we do, just mentioning that you could if you wanted to .... kind of like Adam and Eve in the garden before the fall. Keep hearing all the birds but have not yet seen the elusive Toucan which everyone else seems to say are all over the place.

yes, that is the jungle next to Sue

The lower level under the main level is a storage and workshop space and houses the batteries that collect energy from the solar panels. We are off the grid here but it works like any other home ... just plug it in and turn it on. Inside the home on the main level is a sitting area, bar area and a bedroom and bathroom. Then up the spiral stairs there is an open loft bedroom.

inside the treehouse

Fortunately up on the hillside like this there is a breeze that comes through although we go to sleep with the timer fan on and fall asleep. The mosquito net is more just to keep the bugs off of us, not a lot of mosquito's around. Keeping the lights off in the room the bugs don't come in much either, it's when you have them turned on and the big buzzy dumb beetle comes in that falls on his back and has to play dead until someone (me) flips him over and he jumps up, starts buzzing and flys out the door.

house windows & doors stay open, bugs stay out

Sunsets every day are around 5:30pm and it happens fast like in the commercial. Then it is dark by 6pm so the days are short all year long. I think the locals compensate by getting up early and using the daylight, i.e. surfing at 6am-8am, then breakfast, then work unless the tides are right and the surf is up and if so just go surfing again instead of work or go to work then surf later in the day when the tides and surf are just right.

Color of orange/red not captured in photo

Postscript: 020811 We watched the Superbowl at a local bar (wow, stayed up past 9pm) and were glad the Packers won since we are tired of the Steelers winning it. Still pissed the Pats blew the opportunity this year to win it all. Broncos will be back in 3 years under new coach .... hopeful thinking.

My favorite thing to do!

On the Road Again....

 Contemporary high up ... the price was right!

Hey....that would be a great name for a song by some country singer too.... maybe Willie Nelson or someone like that. Anyway we left Arenal Volcano and headed over the river and through the woods (actually Jungle) to the southern pacific areas of Dominical and south to Ojochal and the Osa peninsula. We are spending about a week and a half right now in this area exploring up and down the Costal highway (one lane in either direction but newly paved). Dominical to Ojochal takes about an easy 30 minute drive. About 6 months ago, prior to paving a large section of this road, it took 2 to 2.5 hours over a very hard dirt and gravel bumpy road. Glad we are here after the progress on the new highway. First couple of nights stayed in El Mono Feliz (the happy monkey) Inn in          

Think there is enough room for two?

Ojochal, a cute and comfortable place. Then we scored two free nights at a large and empty 3 bedroom contemporary home in a development we were looking at courtesy of the real estate agent we are working with.  We are high up above the jungle canopy looking out over the jungle and southern coast. The roads up to get here will shake the fillings out of your teeth and needless to say you have to drive fairly slowly in 4wd in low gear as many of the sections are steep, steep, steep .... like if you stop, you will slide down the side of the jungle. No real downtown area in Ojochal but as you drive into the village from the highway there are a number of restaurants and they are the best ones in the area, so no lack of good eating options.

Fat, dumb & happy

We are mostly cooking for ourselves buying fresh fish caught "today" from the fishermen. Just finished two nights of ahi sashimi tuna which was fabulous. Cooked fresh jumbo shrimp with rice the night before. Fresh fruit including Mango's which taste completely like eating candy, cantalope, watermelon (called Sandia here) coconuts (dah) among many other choices and of course fresh veggies too.

Check out our next blog to see the Swiss Family Robinson house we score next for a week in the jungle looking out over the ocean!

Volcanoes and Home-made Pasta?

Arenal Volcano awaiting next eruption!

That's right!  We traveled toward the middle of the country up to the Lake Arenal region.  We found a hostel online with a great view of the active Arenal volcano.  A hostel?  I am not only out of my box at this point, I cannot even see my box!!  Well, I was pleasantly surprised.  Although the rooms are basic (including shared bath and shower) they were spotless.  The first evening we arrived included all guests meeting in the chef's kitchen to make home-made pasta.   We had a blast - lots of laughter as there was wine involved - guests from Colorado, some newlyweds, etc.  The cooks finished the prep and we dined on a beautiful composed salad, the pasta we made and chocolate mousse.  For you foodies out there, they have a different basil here in CR.  Wonderful flavor, but with a hint of cinnamon - very interesting.  Fabulous banana pancakes and great coffee next morning.  All for $14 per person per night!! Food cost was modest, just a bit extra. Went horseback riding through farmland and jungle - to a waterfall - gorgeous.

The chefs making homemade pasta

Joe was the only one who had the cahoney's to swim under the waterfall.  Innkeeper shared that the volcano had been quiet for an unusually long time and they were expecting a big boom anytime, but all quiet while we were there. This place is filled with North Americans - US and Canadians abound.  Canada was not nearly so affected by our sub-prime meltdown and subsequent recession and they are buying up property in CR these days.

Is it snowing there?

Well it's NOT snowing here! Would somebody please sell my homes in Grand Lake so I can move here now, I am ready. The bank owned home we looked at will only be sold together with the project land for $2.9M. That ain't gonna happen! We are moving over to our next home tomorrow just up the road and still walking distance to the beach but less expensive. A nice room in a large Spanish Villa style home with a total of 7 bedrooms and shared kitchen and living area. We plan to also go to a remax office and start looking at more property so we learn how this area compares to the southern coast we will explore later on this trip. Spoke to some Canadians today and got some great tips on the Arenal Volcano area and a tram up and zipline down the volcano and also learned where the locals go in that area for a free hot spring location on the river. 

 

Sue, ever the fashionista, with black hair and a black bathing suit to compliment the black sand beach and setting it off nicely with that white, white, white complexion. We gotta get some color on that body as I nearly got 3rd degree burns sitting next to her all day. Unfortunately we haven't been able to find any bronzer at the super mercado but she did get some color today so between the two of us with little skin pigmentation, we hope to darken up and start looking more like Tico's in the next few days. We spent the whole day at the beach doing nothing really, walked the rocks around the corner, took a dip, took photos, talked to people, ate tuna fish sandwiches for lunch with Pringles Sour Cream and Onion chips and Coke Zero, Sue reading and me just chillin in my hammock I strung up in the tree. A local went snorkeling/fishing over in the rocks and came by with a couple of Octopus's he was willing to sell. I saw them but was on my way to a bathroom break so Sue didn't buy them because she doesn't want to cook octopus (wimp). Note that I love eating octopus, especially a nice octopus salad or ceviche. Guess I will have to go catch and cook my own. Will have to google "How to prepare octopus" first.  Went shopping tonight at a different super mercado to pick up some scallops and fish and ingredients to make homemade pico de gallo and Sue prepared a GREAT dinner. Even had another beer with my dinner, the second beer in about 10 years and Sue had her usual glass of white wine. Gonna do what I do best next and that is have a bowl of ice cream before heading off to bed. Costa Rica is definitely La Pura Vida!

La Pura Vida is Costa Rica

Just Chillin

Do I look like I am having fun? Trust me.... I am having fun! La Pura Vida ("The Pure Life") is Costa Rica. Pretty tough view out our windows and off our deck. We are in a small condo for 3 nights then going over to a Spanish style inexpensive ($50/night) villa with pool up the road for maybe a week or so in this area of  Ocotal Beach in the northwestern Guanacaste region.  Did a little shopping today and bought a couple of inexpensive hammocks ($12 each) to string up in the trees on the beach tomorrow and just lie in the shade and take intermittent swims around the rocks on either end of the beach to look at sea life.

La Pura Vida

I am really getting into the mood to do a new hair style and go bleached blond (hey it's the beach) moosed up and may do that soon. You think I am kidding right? Stay tuned. We went and looked at some vacant lots today along with a bank owned house up above our condo with an equally awesome view and infinity pool. Needs a lot of work but has all the basics and a view to die for. We have a guy contacting the bank to see what they would sell it for. It is attached to a project that went defunct so he's not sure if they would separate it from the project or not. The project is also an interesting opportunity, was going to be a small spa facility but the market shifted .... sound familiar .... and fewer expat buyers led to similar problemo's here as well. Means similar opportunities, right? 

Do you see him?

Every neighborhood needs a lizard or two right? This one was on the tree adjacent to our deck this morning along with some beautifully colored birds that came and went. Tonight there was a wedding down on the beach and the reception is happening now at the one restaurant on this beach, "Father Roosters". We've been listening and enjoying the "live" band playing "La Bamba", "Guantanamera", "Oye Como Va" ... Hey, it is Central America and they do, in fact, speak Spanish as their first language. Just goes to show that some things are universal .... Do you think Chinese weddings play these songs too? I did in fact hear some Frank Sinatra earlier in the evening and, no surprise, some Gloria Estafen in spanish.  That's all for now, I am heading off to bed thinking about a lazy day ahead doing some more important "chillin". Adios for now.

Killling the amoeba!

(Joe) A sad day indeed since the New England Patriots, who should have gone all the way this year,  bowed out at the hands of the NY Jets.  The Jets will lose in Pittsburgh next week.. We watched the game by making a skype call to my son-in-law and he positioned the computer in front of his hugh projector and we could watch the whole thing. Just wish the outcome was different.

We spent two weeks in Ecuador, mostly a bit ill with an amoeba so we went to the farmacia and got the amoeba killer pill and it seems to have done the job.  Ecuador is still mostly 3rd world and hygiene isn't the number one priority. It is clean but poor especially along the coast. Some beautiful locations along the ocean though and Cotacachi in the mountains was a lovely colonial town and the shopping at the markets was phenomenal.

We decided Ecuador was not our cup of tea so we headed out early and are now in Costa Rica!  World of difference as tap water here is potable and the drive up country today to the northern coast was beautiful. Tonight we are at Ocotal Beach in Guanacaste by Playa Coco. We were here about a year ago and Ocotal beach is one of the few or the only black sand beach that we are aware of in Costa Rica. Gonna chill here for a few days then figure out if we want to go to the volcano region or head down to the southern coast. Probably volcanoes first since all  the "kids" are coming over to meet us for a week (feb 26-March 5) of family vacation time down on the southern coast in Ojochal.    Ahhhhh...... weather here (Ocotal) is nice and hot, soft waves are breaking out our window on the beach. I went down and took a refreshing dip early this evening while Sue prepared dinner. Ready to just CHILL on the beach for a few days. Don't get Ocotal confused with Ojochal, two different beach areas, Ocotal in the north, Ojochal in the south. Adios for now.

Dad's new wedding ring

Saturday, January 15 (Sue) Some additional news - Dad actually drank a beer in Ecuador, bought a replacement wedding ring, hasn't worn one for a zillion years. Pictures attached.

We're Alive!!

Saturday, January 15 (Sue)  In more ways than one, we're alive.  Thank goodness.  The day after our fantastic horse ride, we both were down for 3 days with stomach trouble.  No details, but it was nasty.  Thanks to Coca Cola and Cipro, we seem to be on the mend and hope not to re-experience that part of traveling overseas.  Since then, we flew to Guayaquil and had a driver bring us to Salinas on the southern coast of Ecuador.  The first real estate guy that was showing us the area referred to it as the "Little Miami" - not.  It was a ghetto - it was filled with very nice people, but it was a ghetto none the less.  Pretty beach, nothing spectacular - very dirty streets and again just a lack of organization and cleanliness.  Different standards.  The next day, our guide, Mike Seger took us up the coast and we saw some beautiful spots.  Really liked a small development called Lobster Bay about mid-way between Salinas and Manta.  It was on a bluff overlooking an awesome bay and could walk down to the beach.  Also, room to moor your boat in the bay.  The beach was filled with little restaurants housed in numerous beach huts - really charming and lots of activity around.  Loved it. 

By the way, Mike is somewhat famous.  He was featured on a recent episode of HGTV International - Salinas, Ecuador!  Spent the night in a quaint little surfing town, Mantenita - went out to look for a place to have dinner and ran into a gringo couple reviewing the menu along with us.  Turned out they were the couple featured on that same episode, Kim and Hector (from Chicago).  So much fun, we shared dinner and had lots of laughs.  They love Ecuador and are doing real estate sales here. 
The next two days, we explored the coast north of Manta and can rule that out.  Even less developed and really, really quiet - too quiet for our likes anyway.

Friday we flew from Manta to Quito, spent the night and continued from Quito to Cotacachi today via bus - about two hours north of Quito in the mountains.  Bus ride was hysterical - saw my life flash before me several times as we careened around mountain curves - but God was gracious and delivered us safely.  Cotacachi is charming and clean - will spend several days.  Went to the famed Otavalo Market today - absolutely gorgeous textiles of every variety.  Beautiful alpaca blankets for $12!!  Pashminas for $2.  On and on - if I had more room, I'd have spent a bundle.

Horseback Riding in the Andes

01-05-11(Sue) Never satisfied, I was itching to leave the "Old Town" of Cuenca to get into the emerald-green hills visible from our hotel room by the Tomebamba River.  Hooked up with Gustavo (not pictured) from a local Adventure company and headed out to a large farm to go horseback riding.  No "nose to tail" riding here. To start with, there was no pre-ride paperwork filled with legal mumbo jumbo and disclaimers up the wazoo.   We traversed up and down the hillsides through rocky terrain, meadows and forests.  Our naturalist guide was great, pointing out various plants which provided local remedies for various ailments.  Local pooch, nicknamed "Negro" for his all black fur, kept us company the whole way - miles and miles - disappearing and then reappearing again. Primarily populated by indigenous families, every farm had a dog or two.  One of the locals had passed away - Gustavo explained the indigenous custom that the homeowner of the deceased would host all the locals for 7 days of feasting and partying following the funeral.  The views were breathtaking and the place just smelled so darn good - like flowers and fresh herbs.  

(Joe) This 72 year old Quichua Indian man was the caretaker of the farm we rode on. He still rode horseback everyday. I watched him work and can tell you I couldn't keep up with him. But I betcha he doesn't know how to blog! The horses we rode were of Spanish heritage and were very strong and very Regal in the way they held their heads. I still think they would prefer carrying this man to carrying me but my  horse seemed to have no trouble.

01-06-11 Day off catching up with reading and emails.

01-07-11 Sue off shopping Joe in room reading and dealing with Montezuma's Revenge

Shrunken Heads

01-04-2011(Joe) Today we saw some real human shrunken heads and thank goodness they weren't ours! Saw them at the Centro Museo de Ecuador. Apparently they, the shrunkenheader I suppose you call them, put wooden splinters thru the lips to close them to keep the evil spirits from escaping. My obvious question is then, what about that gaping hole in the shrunkenheadees neck? Can't the evil spirit get out that way? Pretty weird stuff and a good reason why we are staying out of the Amazon part of the country. Even though human shrunken heading is outlawed, they apparently are allowed to shrink the heads of sloths, so I for one don't want some tribal elder explaining to the policia that he mistook the white gringo for an albino sloth if such a thing exists. You must understand that tobacco and other hallucinogens are all part of the process so the pacific coast definitely seems like the more inviting part of the country and the area we will be exploring next week.

(Sue) Called in at the Carolina Bookstore today, run by two Norte Americano's. Gave us a couple of places to meet up with other expats so we can get some first-hand info from those who have taken the plunge and moved to Ecuador. First meeting is tonight at a local wine restaurant / bar. Tomorrow will report what we learn tonight. Also, as we guessed from our limited experience, the bookstore owner confirmed that the normally mild-mannered, easy going Cuencan's become deranged and aggressive when behind the wheel of a car. Do not assume that they will stop. No, they will run you over and I believe him!

Our "Home" in Cuenca, Ecuador

01-03-2011 (Joe) Just spent our first 24 hours in Cuenca. Last night went to Super Mercado and bought a gallon of water "special" in espanol in a clear plastic bottle with 2 smaller clear bottles attached. Went back to room and took off one of the smaller bottles that said "cherry passion" on it. Asked Sue about it and she said it must be flavored water so I took a large swig. Ummmm..... it was alcohol! Moral of the story: read the ingredients and don't trust what your wife tells you. By the way, it was pretty good.

(Sue) Stepped out in faith today -first Joe then me. Joe got a $3 haircut and color. Joe wanted to get his hair bleached blond which was totally fine with me, but he chickened out in the end!! I got a $5 haircut -muy bueno! At the end of the appointment, mentioned to the owner that my watch was not working. She diagnosed that my battery needed to be replaced. Without asking, she locked up her shop and walked us down the road to a shop and told the proprietor what we needed. After all was taken care of she deposited a kiss on each of us and said goodbye. Now, that does not happen often where I live!!